Vegan Biz Profile: McFarland Designs


Our second entry in the Vegan Biz Profile series is McFarland Designs a one-woman handmade jewelry maker in rural Humboldt County, California.

Tell us about McFarland Designs.

Well, it’s just me, toiling away in my garage, trying to make pretty things. :-) I hand-fabricate jewelry using various types of gold and silver and ethically sourced gemstones. My specialty is custom wedding/engagement rings. 5% of my sales go to a different charity each month. I consider myself incredibly fortunate to be able to make a living doing something I enjoy so much (and to be able to do it in ways that have positive effects on society and the environment). Self-employment seems to suit me well, and I love working from home so I can be near my animals and human family.

What types of things do you have for people to buy from you for the holidays?

Lots of rings! (And occasionally earrings or pendants, which I’m always happy to make as custom orders.) Every year I hear from a lot of customers who are planning to propose over the holidays, so it’s usually a busy time for custom engagement rings, and I’m also working on adding some more affordable silver rings to my shop in time for holiday gift-giving. I have a lot of rings in stock right now and I’m running a sale through the end of November to try to reduce my inventory before year end – in my Etsy shop (, you can use coupon code ‘NOV25’ for 25% off any regularly priced in-stock ring, or ‘NOV10’ for an additional 10% off sale items. Year-round, coupon code ‘HEYIMVEGANTOO’ is the secret-vegan-handshake for 10% off anything in the shop.

Before looking at your site, I had no idea there was such a thing as “fair trade gemstones.” From your perspective, how is the adoption of fair trade practices in the jewelry industry catching on?

Slowly, but it’s happening. Due in large part to customer demand, more and more businesses are beginning to take a closer look at their sourcing. But as with many other social/green movements, there are a lot of smokescreens and conflicting information to sort through. It’s so important for consumers to do their research and ask lots of questions. I get almost all of my metal through Hoover & Strong, the industry leader in recycled precious metal refining, and the only one to be third party certified as to their products’ recycled content. Some of my gems come from Columbia Gem House, a company at the forefront in developing the fair trade gemstone movement. Others come from a small local business that deals directly with small scale miners around the world. I also work a lot with lab created stones (also called synthetic, cultured, or man-made), which are physically identical to their mined counterparts. Just as gemstones are formed in nature through heat and other forces within the earth, man-made stones are cultivated through applying similar forces within a laboratory, resulting in a stone that is optically and molecularly identical to a mined stone. Lab created stones’ main impact on the environment is in the power used to run the laboratory, an amount far less impactful than what is incurred with traditional gem mining, and without the often destructive environmental effects of the mining itself.

I want to hear more about all the animals you live with.

Where to begin… we have three dogs – two 13 year old Weim mixes that we’ve had since puppyhood, and a very sweet brindle pit/hound mix who is about 3 years old. We also have a rescued bunny rabbit, a small flock of chickens (including two roosters), two ducks, and two turkeys. The chickens and turkeys all came from Animal Place and Farm Sanctuary. Some of them are ‘spent’ factory laying hens and others are ‘broilers’ (ugh, I hate that term!). The broiler girls have some specific challenges when allowed to live out a full life – due to being genetically manipulated to grow very large very fast (and be slaughtered at a very young age), when they are granted the chance to live longer than a few months, they often have heart problems or issues with their legs due to their weight. We’ve had pretty good luck with ours – the broiler hens’ life expectancy is just 2-3 years and of the three we adopted, one died at just over three years of age and the other two are still kicking approaching four years old. The second of our two broiler turkeys just passed away, but she lived to be six, which is really good considering her genetics. I think that’s the most rewarding part for me – seeing these animals whose supposed destiny was to become Thanksgiving dinner some five years ago out on the lawn, enjoying fresh greens, sunshine, and dust baths.

Tell us about another vegan-owned business that you love that other people may not know about.

I don’t know if I can keep it to just one! I love A Scent of Scandal, and of course Herbivore Clothing Company, but maybe everyone already knows about those. I am a big fan of Etsy, and there are a lot of wonderful independent vegan sellers there – you see a list of all members of Vegan Etsy here. I also have to give love to Sjaaks Organic Chocolates – their inventory is not 100% vegan, but they do have tons of vegan options, everything is fair trade, and I believe the owners are either vegan or nearly so. I spoke with one owner recently and he told me they are definitely working towards their entire line eventually being vegan. (As an aside, I’m coordinating a holiday Sjaak’s chocolate sale for a local nonprofit I volunteer for called SpayHumboldt – if you want to try some Sjaak’s chocolates knowing that the proceeds go to a great cause, please buy them here!)

Vegan Biz Profile: Herbivore Clothing Company


A few weeks ago, Josh at Herbivore posted a series of simple graphics promoting the importance of buying from vegan-owned businesses during the holidays. The idea is simple and elegant: if you’re buying gifts, make sure your money goes to people whose ideals you support. So, for the next month-or-so, I’m going to feature a series of profiles of vegan businesses. Some you’ve heard of, some you haven’t, and some you may have forgotten about. If you’d like to participate, drop me a note!

It makes sense that we start the series with the folks responsible for the “hey, don’t forget to buy vegan!” reminders: the kind crew at Herbivore Clothing Company.

Who are you and why do I care?

I’m Josh! We’re old friends! You… forgot?

I’m Josh Hooten! I co-founded The Herbivore Clothing Company almost 10 years ago with my partner Michelle here in sunny Portland, Oregon.

What types of great stuff do you have for people to buy from you for the holidays?

You know, we only stock stuff that we would/do use so it’s hard to pick specific items as we like it all. But some recent favorites of mine are our redesign of our Wings Are For Flying Not Frying shirt. I drew and lettered this design by hand, so that was fun for me. And we printed it with a super soft ink so it has a real cozy, vintage feel to it. I’m also really happy with our new Eat A Plant, Save A Planet design. Both of those come in a couple of versions. We also have a gigantic selection of vegan cookbooks which seems to get bigger every time the UPS driver comes. We have been cooking out of Jonie Newman’s veggie burger book, The Best Veggie Burgers On The Planet, and Julie Hasson’s latest, Vegan Diner. We are also really proud of a book we published, the Vegan Pregnancy Survival Guide by Sayward Rebhal. And then there are always our belts, wallets, jewelry, scarves, tote bags, backpacks, courier bags, socks, art, lunchboxes, waterbottles, body care items, purses…the list goes on! And if you can’t decide on a gift, we always have gift certificates.

What inspired you to create the “buy from vegans” series you posted a few weeks ago?

That came out of a series of conversations I’ve had in the past couple of years with friends who own vegan businesses. It seems when we see each other the first thing we ask is “How are you all doing?” with a slight bit of trepidation in our voices because the economy has been down for so long and we’re all afraid for each other. I think it’s important, any time of year, to support people who support the things you believe in, but especially so during the holidays. All retailers make a good chunk of their incomes at this time of year but small shops can’t afford to market themselves like big retailers. This means we aren’t in your face all the time and aren’t bombarding you with messages to buy from us. So we lose a lot of support, I think, because we just can’t market like that (nor would most of us want to.) Small businesses also can’t compete with big retailers on price because those big places order such huge quantities they get better discounts, or better shipping rates, etc. So while you can probably save a few bucks buying a book on Amazon, they also sell stuff that violates your ethics, and I think whenever possible you should support folks who support your ethics. Also, if you buy a bunch of gifts from a vegan retailer, they won’t go out and buy hamburgers with your money, they will buy vegan food. So the money stayed, for a while longer, in ethical places. That is a big deal and worth spending a bit more for, I think.

How important are holiday sales to your business?

Holiday sales are a big deal. I don’t know what percentage of sales we make in November and December but it’s a chunk. A few years ago when the economy really sank November and December, sales wise, were totally flat. There was no boost from holiday sales and it was hard for us to keep the doors open until things picked back up in the Summer. You spend a lot of money getting your inventory up to hopefully have enough stuff to sell. So you have full shelves and no money and hope to sell a bunch before the bills come. When the holiday sales never come, you can feel your heart sink. That was terrifying as we’ve always been really careful and conservative in terms of growth and spending. (Note: This is the only place in my life I’d describe myself as a conservative. Just want to be clear there.) That felt like everything we’d worked on for years could have gone away for reasons we couldn’t control. We’d played it safe and didn’t over spend or stock a million things just to have huge selection and generally done things in a way we thought were right and then all of a sudden we were trying to figure out how to get out of our lease and who could we sublet the space to and all sorts of disaster scenarios. I’m sure a bunch of other vegan retailers were in the same boat. So holiday sales are a big deal, especially in this economy. We pulled through, obviously, but that was scary.

Tell us about another vegan-owned business that you love that other people may not know about.

We love our vegan mini-mall neighbors Food Fight Vegan Grocery, Sweetpea Baking Company, and Scapegoat Tattoo and our pals on the east coast Cosmo’s Vegan Shoppe. MooShoes in NYC are awesome and were a real trailblazer in the vegan retail realm. Hardcore kids shouldn’t miss Motive Clothing on the east coast. Vaute Couture make super awesome coats. Sudo Shoes in Boston are super nice and have a great selection. Vegan Collection belts and wallets are great. Also, Never Felt Better in Sacramento. I can’t wait to visit Nice Shoes in Vancouver someday and Sarah’s Place in Victoria. I’m sure I’m forgetting a bunch more and I’m sure there are a ton I don’t even know about.

Natural flavors


I was reading through Reed Mangel’s new book The Everything Vegan Pregnancy Book (because, in case you hadn’t heard, we’ve got a second little vegan on the way!) and came across this little nugget of info that, I admit, I hadn’t heard before:

If an ingredient listing contains the term “natural flavors,” the USDA’s Food Safety and Inspection Service (FSIS) requires that, if the natural flavors are derived from animal sources, the label indicates this. The term “natural flavors” on a label without additional qualification means spices, spice extracts, or essential oils were used to flavor the food.

This goes against the conventional vegan wisdom of “natural flavors just mean they weren’t made in a laboratory, so they can be animal-or-plant derived.” I had no idea that it’ legally needs to state if any of those natural flavors come from animal sources.

This FAQ on the FSIS page seems to confirm this:

Can the terms “dried meat or poultry stocks,” “dried broth,” “meat extracts,” and “dried beef plasma” be listed on meat and poultry labels as “natural flavorings”?

No. Substances derived from animal sources must be identified as to the species of origin on the label and be consistent with the definition established by Federal regulation. For example, the listing on the label would read “dried chicken stock,” “lamb extract,” or “dried beef plasma.”

My only follow-up question would be if this includes things like dairy-derived flavoring, but there’s some clarification on that further down the page:

Can hydrolyzed animal or vegetable protein be identified as “natural flavoring” on the label?

No. FSIS regulation requires that animal or vegetable proteins must be specifically identified in the ingredient statement on the labels. The source of the protein must also be disclosed. On the label, you will read “hydrolyzed wheat protein” or “hydrolyzed milk protein,” not just hydrolyzed protein.

What Federal regulation defines what can be listed as a natural flavoring on the meat and poultry label?

On March 1, 1990, FSIS published the final rule, Ingredients That May Be Designated as Natural Flavors, Natural Flavorings, Flavors, or Flavorings When Used in Meat or Poultry Products. The rule did the following:

  • Defined the ingredients, i.e., spices, spice extractives, and essential oils, that may be declared as “natural flavors” or “flavors” on meat and poultry labels.
  • Required more specific listing of certain ingredients. Substances such as dried beef stock, autolyzed yeast, and hydrolyzed proteins must be listed on the label by their common or usual names because their purpose is not just for flavor. They are flavor enhancers, emulsifiers, stabilizers, and binders.
  • Required that the specific source of hydrolyzed protein be indicated on the label, for example, “hydrolyzed soy protein” or “hydrolyzed whey protein.”

Note that the title of the page with this information is “Food Safety: Natural Flavorings on Meat and Poultry Labels,” so I’m not 100% sure this applies to packaged foods like snacks and cereals, too.

“An ethic of justice doesn’t change.”

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Vegan RD extraordinaire Ginny Messina was interviewed over on The Thinking Vegan and it’s well worth a read. Ginny talks the standard nutrition talk, but unlike many RDs, she also discusses the ethical side of veganism. This section is particularly striking (emphasis mine):

No one knows what the exact “ideal” diet for humans is, or if there is any single diet that fits that definition. I talk with my colleagues frequently about new research and whether we need to reassess some of our recommendations or advice based on the latest findings – because ideas about the best way to eat are forever changing. Who knows what the research will be showing 40 years from now? But an ethic of justice doesn’t change. The argument in favor of animal rights today will be the same in 40 years. So why not stick with the argument that is 100 percent unassailable, the one that we never have to scramble to defend in light of new findings?

In addition, I think there is a real problem in shifting the focus of veganism away from an ethic of justice for animals toward more anthropocentric concerns. It actually reinforces the idea that our food and lifestyle choices should be all about us – a belief that lies at the center of animal exploitation.

I used to feel that people that came to veganism solely through a desire to eat healthier couldn’t be counted on to be in it for the long-haul. Natala proved me wrong. However, I do still think that at some point during a person’s transition to veganism, the ethical side of it should come into play to help reinforce one’s resolve.

(ETA the link to the interview. Oops.)

Oh, Anthony Bourdain… will you ever stop saying stupid things?


From an upcoming Playboy interview with Anthony Bourdain:

On his thoughts on vegetarians: “They make for bad travelers and bad guests. The notion that before you even set out to go to Thailand, you say, ‘I’m not interested,’ or you’re unwilling to try things that people take so personally and are so proud of and so generous with, I don’t understand that, and I think it’s rude. You’re at Grandma’s house, you eat what Grandma serves you.”

On his loathing feelings toward vegans: “I don’t have any understanding of it. Being a vegan is a first-world phenomenon, completely self-indulgent.”

Good lord. Really? It’s the hezbollah thing all over again. How hard is it to realize that there’s nothing more “completely self-indulgent” than killing and eating animals when you don’t have to?

Is it just me or has Anthony Bourdain always felt like the phoniest of the phony celebrity chefs? His persona seems so overtly manufactured. Like, I feel that Gordon Ramsay is pretty close to what you get on Kitchen Nightmares. But Bourdain has always come off like a fake jackarse mugging for the camera.

(original link via Mom)