This interview with the former executive chef at the ’21’ Club is interesting for this bit (emphasis added):
What’s the first thing you look at when you work on a failing restaurant?
I walk into a place and assess the damage. First of all, the food, the menu. Engineering of menus is very important. They have to have diversity: chicken, fish, vegetables. It has to please a vast majority of people with different tastes. Vegan dishes are becoming especially important.
It seems more and more, if there is a vegan at the table, they will dictate the order. So you need to be prepared.
I can’t say I feel like the vegan Mussolini (Get it? Order dictator? Har!), but I was really happy to see vegans being talked about as an actual target market and not “a persistent irritant to any chef worth a damn.”