Lobsters in Gourmet magazine


Erik Marcus has posted a great piece covering Gourmet‘s recent article about lobsters. In the magazine’s article, writer David Foster Wallace penned a lengthy piece about the cooking of live lobsters and the ethics associated with it, as well as meat eating in general. You wouldn’t expect a foodie magazine like Gourmet to print such an item, so Erik has examined the possible reasons why they’d risk alienating a large part of their audience. I’m going to try and pick up a copy of the magazine… one paragraph that Erik quoted really caught my attention:

Given the (possible) moral status and (very possible) physical suffering of the animals involved, what ethical convictions do gourmets evolve that allow them not just to eat but to savor and enjoy flesh-based viands (since of course refined enjoyment, rather than just ingestion, is the whole purpose of gastronomy)? And for those gourmets who’ll have no truck with convictions or rationales and who regard stuff like the previous paragraph [about a lobster’s attempts to get out of a pot of boiling water] as just so much pointless navel-gazing, what makes it feel okay, inside, to dismiss the whole issue out of hand? That is, is their refusal to think about any of this the product of actual thought, or is it just that they don’t want to think about it? Do they ever think about their reluctance to think about it? After all, isn’t being extra aware and attentive and thoughtful about one’s food and its overall context part of what distinguishes a real gourmet? Or is all the gourmet’s extra attention and sensibility just supposed to be aesthetic, gustatory?

8 Responses to “Lobsters in Gourmet magazine”

  1. Heather

    Wow. I’m shocked the gourmet would run something like that. I’ll bet that they’re going to get A LOT of outraged letters. I wonder if you can find the issue on the stands. I’d like to read the article.

  2. Ryan

    I believe it’s the current issue… I’m going to try and check it out at the library tomorrow.

  3. heidi

    have you seen the ads in the lefthand column of your blog??!!!
    On the main screen it was 2 ads for hot dogs, and one for the ketchup you should choose for your hotdog. On this very comments page, i am looking at an ad for Big Game safari snacks, premium elk meat, hormone-free beef, lamb and pork, and one for Marky’s specialty meats. (ads by google)
    Just wanted to call this to your attention.

  4. Ryan

    Ugh. Unfortunately Google ads don’t let you exclude words so that you don’t get certain types of ads… I can, however, block URLs, so I’ll do that one-by-one when I see any meat-related ads.

    Thanks for mentioning this to me.

  5. Torsten Schöneich

    that gives a very clear image of you carot knibblers !!!

    when it comes to your wallet you can live pretty well with “specialty meat” ads. so your whole “vegan” attitude is pure bullshit since not even your fucking website is “vegan”…

    a lobster killer & meat eater
    (i cooked 150 lobsters at a gourmet event last month and NONE of these tried to climb out
    of the kettle nor did they knock against it,
    the were dead the minute i threw em in !!!)

  6. Ryan

    when it comes to your wallet you can live pretty well with “specialty meat” ads. so your whole “vegan” attitude is pure bullshit since not even your fucking website is “vegan”…


    I’ve been adding any non-veggie-related ads I’ve added to Google’s URL filter, if that makes you feel any better, Sir Troll.

    Besides, it’s kind of funny that meat is paying to help pay for a vegetarian website. Usually it’s vegetarian’s job to worry about “buying someone else’s hamburger.”

  7. Stella

    Funny enough, I was nibbling carrots while reading that post from your troll… :-)

  8. Carrie

    Mmmm… Carrots!

    You should also block eBay.com, shoppingjopbs.net, and onlineprofitmachine.com

    Those are advertising venison cooking tips, meat tenderizers, and ‘Get paid to eat meat!’

    How exciting.

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